The baja is made from 1″ schedule 40 pvc plumbing pipe. 3/4″ steel electrical conduit is run inside the bottom rails, full length, to give strength to frame. I put a piece of conduit in the rear cross tube also. *NOTE* Rear wheel supports did not hold up to weight & 26″ wheels. This baja out of commission. Working on next chassis using 1 1/4″ pvc. Read modifications below.
Baja quadracycle plans obtained from American Speedster.
Motors from Electric Rider.
L.E.D. lighting from Super Bright LEDs
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- Left Front
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- Right Front
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- Left Rear
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- Right Rear
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- Rear Low Angle
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- Motor Controllers
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- Battery For Lights
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- Dash Compartment
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- Dash Open
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- Dash Wiring
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- Dash Brackets
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- Frame Drop Downs
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- Front Spindle Extended
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- Front Derailleur Mockup 1
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- Front Derailleur Mockup 2
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- Brake Pivot Lever
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- Front Brake
The American Speedster quadracycles are primarily designed for low speed operation, like around “retirement communities”, bike paths, etc. I’m pretty sure I have pushed this a little beyond it’s intended design… 24.5mph so far (downhill).
Modifications from original American Speedster Baja plans:
- Extended frame 12″. Original plans call for 20″ wheels in back, 16″ up front. I had to add 6″ in back to fit 26″ rear wheels, then added 6″ up front to make room for battery packs & controllers. Front wheels are 20″ – the American Speedster “Side Kick” uses 20″ up front, so I just ordered those brackets from American Speedster.
- Added 3″ drop to bottom frame rails to make more space for battery packs, controllers, and extra battery for lighting.
- Extended rollbar up 6″. In original plans my head was in the roll bar. I had to lengthen the rest of the roll bar sections also to compensate for taller rear bars and 12″ stretch.
- Extended front “spindles” out 4″ to get tighter turning radius. Since pvc is not designed to hold weight or deal with any stress, I added a piece of electrical conduit across the bottom, and supports going to top frame rails from spindle top.
- *** All the plans from American Speedster call for 20″ wheels in the rear. As noted, I mounted 26″ wheels on the rear. The rear wheels set at an angle, giving look of a racing style wheelchair when viewing from the back. The 1″ pvc supports for rear wheels were actually bowing, causing this. Situation got worse as I put miles on it. I am going to build another chassis from 1 1/4″ pvc, to stiffen everything up, and get the rear wheels to stand vertical. I have already had broken spokes. Discussing the spokes with bike shop, we concluded it is because of weight and the wheels are not vertical. The first chassis I built (but never finished 100%) was made from 1 1/4″ pvc, and did not have this issue.
Extras:
- Dash compartment – small aluminum case from Harbor Freight. Used to carry battery chargers, spare fuses, etc.
- Racing seat – plastic with cover & adjustable slide tracks for dune buggies, race cars, etc. Any aftermarket shop should be able to get one. Here is a manufacturer – Jaz Products. Any ol’ seat will work, boat seats, etc, just depends on the comfort & “cool factor” levels you want.
- Fenders – Planet Bike Hardcore ATB – Check local bike shop or Amazon.com. The fenders are for 26″ bike, but they worked on the 20″ front wheels also.
- Matching front / rear Kenda Kwest tires.
- Mirrors – Generic replacements for motorcycles, mounted on brackets for electrical conduit.
- Added plexiglass windscreen. It is a chilly ride below 65 degrees in the mornings. A removable windscreen will be on next chassis, as the breeze is nice after temps warm up.
Switches in dash compartment:
- GREEN l.e.d. toggles – At the top of the roll bar, I have amber L.E.D.s., two in front & two in back. Each side is hooked to a separate strobe flasher, to get an alternating pattern. I can shut one side off to have turn signals. Strobe units can be seen in photo called “dash wiring” **I added two more amber l.e.d.s on the rear at bottom next to fenders, as that part of the cycle is much wider. An updated video is needed, as it looks even better now, I think!
- BLUE l.e.d. toggle – L.E.D. daytime running lights utilized as headlights, two red L.E.D.s in back for tail lights
- RED l.e.d. toggle – REVERSE! The motor controllers have reverse capability! Whooooo Hoooo!!!
- Schwinn speedometer – I had to lengthen the wires. Too much shaking in front wheel, did not work properly, so I moved sensor to rear wheel
CHECK ‘EM OUT! Even though they are very small, the lights can be seen from a great distance at night, and good distance during the day except on very bright sunny days. The daytime running lights are on the verge of blinding at night, still very bright during the day.
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Personally I think the paint colors do not show very decent in photos. They are called “X-Metals” from Krylon. It is a “candy color” type paint. My best friend who has painted cars for decades was impressed that it turned out as good as it did, from a can. He said candy colors are challenging even for professional painters to lay down with spray guns. We are brainstorming a lightweight body to hang.
A pair of 36 volt electric “roadrunner” motors provide motive power in addition to pedal power. I did not need the 2nd motor (more about this below), but it is more fun with both!. I estimate the cycle weighs about 100-125lbs, and I am 155lbs. If more funny money had been available, I would have splurged on at least one Phoenix 72 volt system. The Phoenix appears to be so powerful I would have to be very gentle on throttle, or it would likely rip the pvc frame apart! See a Phoenix in action at this blog post! The Phoenix II motors have superseded the Roadrunner series. They are more expensive, but appear to be a superior motor, and has a computer display with diagnostics.
Initially I only had one motor installed on right side. It was very difficult to pedal, and struggled up hills using motor & pedaling, so I obtained 2nd motor. Upon installing 2nd motor, I realized I had not put spacers between the freewheel & inside bracket on left side (when pedal power only), causing freewheel to rub, which created lots of rolling resistance. Added spacers, now it pedals MUCH easier!
Batteries are 12 volt, 12 amp hour “Sealed Lead Acid (SLA)”, which means they can be installed in any position, even upside down. Three batteries are wired in series to get 36 volts. I went about 11 miles on a single charge using only one motor, then only pedaling uphill to help motor. I have yet to find out how far it will go with both motors. Bigger amp hour batteries increase range, but add more weight, and are not cheap. Lithium Ion batteries would be awesome, but are priced WAY beyond my budget constraints. Pedaling will increase range too, but I do not like pedaling. I use this to commute to work, 7.5 miles one way. Batteries can be obtained from Electric Rider. I purchased battery pack for 2nd motor and battery for lights from a local Batteries plus outlet. The nice thing about battery packs from Electric Rider is they can be pre-wired, “plug & play”.
Currently has cruise on one motor, with cruise yet to be hooked up to 2nd. Brake levers have built in switches to cancel cruise, just like a brake pedal in a car. I have to fabricate a “Y” connector cable to hook cruise for 2nd motor up to brake switch. Cruise is an awesome feature. I originally had the 1st motor on a comfort bike, and rode it without cruise. After a couple miles, thumb was numb & sore.
The metal tube seen on left side going to front sprocket is a support bar. There is so much torque when pedaling that the crank flexes severely. This was a mod shown to me by American Speedster.
Currently only rear “caliper” style brakes are installed. I am going to install “V-brake” style eventually for better stopping power. The tabs sticking up on front tire brackets are for caliper style brakes, and hold front fender. I may put v-brakes up front also. I have a “pivot” lever designed that will allow me to activate two brakes from one brake lever. The last two photos up top showing brake setup are from the first baja I built, but never finished 100%. It was scrapped
The 21 speed pedal system currently only utilizes 7 speeds from rear freewheel. As evidenced in two photos, I am working on a setup for front derailleur to make use of all gears.
The “radio holsters” on each side are leftovers from days gone by. I use them on the baja for holding sun glasses, cell phone, etc. Water bottle bracket is on left side next to seat.
Need to tidy up the battery wiring, and some of the wiring for lights.
I guesstimate I have about $2,000 total invested. One could possibly be built for less than $500 – pedal power only, using salvage bikes. Every part on this is new, except the holsters.
This may sound expensive, but it is paid for, and much less expensive than a chevy volt, nissan leaf, or these:
Rhoades Car
Lightfoot cycles
Ok, I would like to have a Rhoades car like this